Magnificence of the Tsars at V&A
Ceremonial Men’s Dress of the Russian Imperial Court 1721-1917
Dec 10, 2008
The magnificence and luxury of the Imperial Russian Court is on display at London's Victoria & Albert Museum as part of an exchange between the V&A and the Moscow Kremlin Museums. Two Centuries of British Fashion, which opened in Moscow in September 2008, features 18th- and 19th-Century British fashions on loan from the V&A's collection.
Magnificence of the Tsars
Magnificence of the Tsars features the coronation uniforms, regalia and jewellery worn by the Romanov Tsars between 1721 and 1917. Also on display are fine examples of dress uniforms worn by Court officials, coachmen and postilions.
More than 40 luxurious ensembles testify to the skills of the craftsmen of the time. The Russian Court employed the best tailors, embroiderers and jewellers who worked with the finest fabrics, silks and lace. Some of the costumes show the influence of Western Europe on the Russian Court while others demonstrate how later Tsars looked to traditional Russian styles.
The show is supported by examples of weapons worn at Court, portraits of the Tsars, magnificently illustrated books, jewellery, lavishly decorated snuff boxes and a gem-encrusted pocket telescope.
The exhibition is organised chronologically and starts by examining the wardrobe of Peter II, the boy emperor, who reigned for three years from 1727-1730.
The Western European Influence
When Peter II was crowned the Court was very much influenced by Western European influences. The display includes a colourful red suit. It is the only one in Peter's wardrobe to bear the insignia of chivalric orders such as the Star of the Order of St Andrew, the highest order in Russia. The garment also bears the star of the Danish order of the White Elephant. The installation features a complete range of Peter's clothing including stockings and underwear, nightshirts, breeches, beautiful coats and gowns as well as his coronation waistcoat. The range of different sizes shows how he grew during his reign.
Court Official Costumes from Coronation of Paul I
The presentation also includes a herald's tabard and boots worn at the coronation of Paul I in 1796. The ornamental boots imitate those of Ancient Roman noblemen as interpreted by European theatre. They are decorated with ribbons and topped with richly embroidered gilt lions' heads. The tabard bears the state emblem of the Russian Empire and combines elements of heraldry, theatre costume and European fashions.
Coronation Mantle of Empress Maria Fedorovna
The climax of the show must be the coronation mantle worn by Empress Maria Fedorovna at the coronation of Nicholas II in 1896. The mantle was seven metres long, weighed 13 kilograms and used 2691 ermine skins.
Renewed Interest in Russian Traditional Dress
The fancy dress costume worn by Nicholas II to the Russian Ball of 1903 shows how, after 200 years of Western European fashions, the Court took a renewed interest in Russian history and traditional dress.
Magnificence of the Tsars - Publication
To accompany the exhibition the V&A has published an equally luxurious full-colour catalogue entitled Magnificence of the Tsars. The book has been written by Dr Alexey Levykin, Research Director of the Moscow Kremlin Museums, and co-authored with Dr Svetlana Amelekhina, Senior Research Officer and Curator of Imperial Court Dress at the Kremlin. Dr Rosalind P. Blakesley, a specialist in Russian art, and Senior Lecturer in the History of Art at the University of Cambridge, has written the introduction. The catalogue features all the items in the exhibition and tells the reader who wore them and why.
Magnificence of the Tsars is showing until 2nd March 2009 and full details can be obtained from the Victoria & Albert Museum.
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