Workshop Missoni – Inspired by the Futurists

Daring to be Different at Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art

Jul 1, 2009

Missoni colourful geometric designs changed knitwear forever. This exhibition looks at sources of inspiration and the processes involved in producing Missoni creations.

The Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art has a fine collection of figurative art and sculpture dating from 1890 to the 1950s. The gallery has several pieces by Futurist painters, including Giacomo Balla, Umberto Boccioni, Gino Severini, Luigi Russolo and Ardengo Soffici. The Estorick also displays work by Giorgio de Chirico, Amedeo Modigliani, Giorgio Morandi, Mario Sironi and Marino Marini.

The Estorick Collection is hosting an exhibition entitled Workshop Missoni: Daring to be Different. The Missoni brand is known the world over for its multi-coloured stripes, zigzags, floral and abstract designs. The exhibition, curated by Luca Missoni (supported by the Fondazione Ottavio e Rosita Missoni) examines those designs and their relationship to Futurism. It also explores the personal lives of the founders and their families.

Ottavio and Rosita Missoni – the Founders

The exhibition tells how, in the late 1940s, Ottavio (also known as Tai) set up a factory to manufacture tracksuits. The suits were adopted by the Italian Athletic Team and worn at the 1948 London Olympics. Ottavio was actually a member of the team and qualified for the finals of the 400m hurdle race. During his visit to London he met his future wife, Rosita Jelmini, whose family were shawl and ladies' wear manufacturers from northern Italy.

Rosita and Ottavio married in 1953 and set up a workshop in the basement of their home in Gallarate, northern Italy. Their first collection, Milano-Simpathy, was shown in Milan in 1958 to great acclaim. The couple had three children, Vittorio, Angela and Luca, all of whom are involved in the still thriving family business.

In 1965, Anna Piaggi, then fashion editor of Arianna magazine, became interested in the Missoni's work. With her support the brand flourished. In 1967 the Missoni name was on everybody's lips when the collection was shown at the Pitti Palace, Florence. The models were instructed, by Rosita, to remove their bras, possibly because they were the wrong colour or showed through the fabrics. The audience gasped as the materials became transparent under the lights. Outrageous! The Missonis were not invited back to the Pitti the following year, but their place in fashion history was assured.

Missoni Designs Inspired by Modernist Art

Workshop Missoni goes behind the scenes to demonstrate how the family has harnessed technical innovation to produce the kaleidoscopic colours, textures and dynamic geometric patterns that have changed the face of knitwear forever.

On display are more than twenty garments created for the cat walk during the first forty years of the Missoni workshops. One of the most beautiful items on display is a Lurex evening dress from the Autumn/Winter Collection of 1967.

The influence of Futurist artists, such as Sonia Delaunay, Giacomo Balla, Gino Severini and Tancredi, is clear. Rosita's work owes a lot to Sonia Delaunay and the exhibition includes a number of Delaunay's works such as Rhythme Coloeur, ca. 1962. The show also features Ballerina by Gino Severini, ca. 1957.

On view is a selection of Ottavio's sketches and drawings showing how he created the patterns that form the basis of the Missoni style. The display also includes items relating to Ottavio's other creative interests such as collage and patchwork. In the 1970's Ottavio became interested in other projects, designing everything from theatrical costumes to carpets and tapestries. Everything is vivid colour and vibrant patterns.

There is also a fascinating display of family photographs and memorabilia including Ottavio's certificate from the 1948 London Olympics. The installation charts the life and work of Rosita and Ottavio, and their family, over the last fifty years.

During the exhibition a specially commissioned video, The Black and White of Colour, by Maggie Norden (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London) will be screened. The film relates the history of the Missoni brand through interviews with Ottavio and Rosita. The film also features interviews with the Italian fashion writer Anna Piaggi, knitwear designer Kaffe Fassett and Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune.

A second installation features two video-based works entitled Casa di Moda (Fashion House), by Ali Kazma, a Turkish artist interested in Missoni production techniques.

In a gallery lined with spools of coloured threads and photographs of the cutting and sewing rooms, a further video shows a normal day in the workshop in which visitors watch the Missoni looms tended by employees.

The Estorick's garden café, set with Missoni outdoor furniture, is dominated by two 300 cm-high mosaic-covered vases featuring iconic Missoni patterns.

Workshop Missoni: Daring to be Different will be on view until 20th September 2009. The exhibition is accompanied by a catalogue and a number of special events. Full details of publications, events and the exhibition can be found at Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art.

The copyright of the article Workshop Missoni – Inspired by the Futurists in Special Art Gallery Exhibits is owned by Frances Spiegel. Permission to republish Workshop Missoni – Inspired by the Futurists in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.