Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective at de Young
Exhibit Celebrates 40 Years of Fashion Design
Mar 20, 2009
The special exhibit – the first since the designer died last year – shows 40 years of fine design produced by the Maison Haute Couture Yves Saint Laurent, which fused fashion with art, pop culture, literature, and social issues. It is not about the brand-- more commonly known as YSL – but about the man behind the brand.
Relating to Fine Art and Literature
The exhibition includes almost 130 accessorized garments that belong to the Foundation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent in Paris. They range from pieces that he designed in his early days working at Christian Dior, to his final work from the Spring/Summer collection of 2002, after which he retired.
Many of Saint Laurent's garments were inspired by fine art. For instance, a jacket that he designed in 1988 is based on Van Gogh's paintings of irises, and is embroidered with 40 pounds of sequins and beads. Another cocktail dress from 1965 is a tribute to Mondrian – black lines and square patches of white, red, and yellow dividing up a simple-cut dress like a Mondrian painting. Other garments strongly show Saint Laurent's references to Picasso, Shakespeare, and Jean Cocteau.
Revolutionizing How Women Dress
Saint Laurent also played a huge role in changing how women dressed. Looking at some of those garments now, one may not see why they are so special – for instance, a pea coat or a safari jacket does not seem like ground-breaking fashion.
However, when Saint Laurent first introduced these garments in the 1960s, they were sensational and provocative. He created the first tuxedo for women. Giving women a look that was traditionally associated with men was a statement for Saint Laurent in showing a power shift in gender. But being a "powerful" woman meant more to Saint Laurent than putting a woman into a man's suit. His sleek evening gowns emphasize the beauty of the female form.
Keeping in Touch with Nature
Many garments in the exhibition reflect Saint Laurent's affiliation with nature. A bikini-like bridal gown from 1997 is covered thickly with pink and green flowers, leaves, and has a pink frilly train. A coat from 1990 is embellished with feathers from a number of different birds – rooster, pheasant, even vulture; another jacket is heavily embroidered with flowers.
The exhibition also displays drawings, photographs, and videos of Saint Laurent, including a photograph taken by Andy Warhol of Saint Laurent with his dog. This special exhibit, which started in Montreal, is only making one stop in the United States. It will continue until April 5.
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